The Siemianówka Reservoir has as much sex appeal to me as a poop with a leaf. Boring, planted pine forests with densely piled summer houses. But why were special forces soldiers lost here for three days?
Some time ago, I stayed for a week in a very nice agro farm – “Cisówka 69” on the north-eastern outskirts of the lagoon. Franek, the owner, sold me a secret:
“The wetlands between the lagoon and the border with Belarus are one of the most beautiful places in this part of Podlasie.”
The next day we put on our snowshoes (it was January) and set out to explore them. In the vicinity of the living spirit. Only freight trains crossing to Belarus and Border Guard patrol.
“- Good morning, gentlemen, for bison counting? – the border guards took us for employees of the park, who, as every year, counted the bison in the field.
– No no. We’re just messing around.”
Later I found out that border guards do not like this area. It is difficult to access, so people smugglers chose it more often. Every now and then they manage to slip through and then there is a mess. When going to this area, it is better to call the Narewka Police Headquarters in advance and let them know about your presence. Otherwise, you’ll get the entire border guard on their feet.
Frank and I walked along the causeway, along the sides of which spread frozen marshes overgrown with reeds. The sandy islands were covered with tufts of birches and pines. Our path was often blocked by thick willows gnawed by elk. It was a beautiful, wild emptiness. We found fox tracks, otters and beaver lodges and I fell in love with this place. I told myself I had to come back here.
The area is huge, roughly a thousand hectares. When a special forces team came here for training a few years ago, they couldn’t find their way back for three days. I started with the easier, south-east section of the wetlands.
As soon as I got out of the car, I knew it was worth it. On the road I found fresh wolf poo and scratched ground (among other things, this is how wolves mark the area). Wild geese, ducks and swans sat in the reeds. And after a few steps I found the first bones of elk or deer eaten by wolves.
Mostly I was looking at my feet, looking for tracks, but also because in April the area was extremely wet. My knee-high wellingtons were often too short and I had to walk around the pools with clumps of grass.
But every time I raised my head it was worth it. The first time, my jaw dropped to the ground: a huge bald eagle took flight. I watched him through my binoculars with my mouth open in delight. I saw a bald eagle once, but then I watched a few other predators in action.
The closer I got to the border, the drier it got. I was tempted by the forest to the north of me, but to reach it I would have to cross the Narew. And with plus two and a strong wind, I was not very happy about it. I walked as far as the backwaters would allow.
First I found more devoured animal skulls, feathers and bones, and then I found a wolf. It’s just a pity that he quickly ran away into the forest. We haven’t been able to please each other. However, two hundred meters from the border, I found fresh wolf droppings and beautiful tracks imprinted in the mud.
The border is always the most interesting – says Joao, my friend and guide to Białowieża.
And indeed, there is something magical about such a place. The closer I was to the yellow, Belarusian border posts, the more excited I was and the more I saw: animals, tracks and birds. Then one thought popped into my head:
– Shouldn’t this area be part of the Białowieża National Park?
